Now cut the triangles from the back sheet of ply. In spite of my careful drawings and models it seems the long leg will work better at 30" instead of 28" that I originally indicated. The short leg is still 12".
Next I'll position these on the bow and mark them for gluing the butt blocks.
More true confessions. Part of the fun of boat building is being clever about fixing mistakes. I got a good opportunity for cleverness today.
As I began to piece the back together I realized it seemed smaller than it should be. It turned out I didn't make enough allowance for the external chine log. Also, I failed to realize that my slotted stem (as much as I love it) puts the theoretical apex of the sides a couple of inches out in space beyond the bow of the boat. Ain't boat design fun! This is why I don't just build by plans... I'd miss all this!
Today reminded me of a great Yogi Berra quote I got from Lew Clayman.
On to the solution.
An internal chine log or a stitch and glue version of Summer Breeze would work with the current dimensions. However, even so, I was able to fudge it via the miracle of PL Premium "inlay."
. If you haven't glued up your sides and transom yet, here's what you do. To get the bottom to fully cover the external chine logs, the transom needs to be moved forward 2 1/2". (This includes the original 3/4" I moved mine previously.) The transom is so thick I was able to hold the bottom back a 1/2" from the back edge of the transom. This still allowed sufficient chine joint at the bow. It seems my obsession with getting the most from the least made me dance a little close to the edge. Hey, what can I say... it worked in theory! ;-)
I once again stapled over twine which works well. I did pre-bevel the butt blocks this time using my band saw and belt sander, which seems easier than sanding the taper after they're glued.
After the back is glued up, it is dry fit and marked at chines. Make sure the boat is aligned before you mark the back. A string pulled tight from stem to stern should cross the center line of your frame. If it doesn't nudge the hull around until it does.
The back is trimmed a little outside the line with circular saw. How close you cut it depends on your confidence and what tool you will do your final trim with. If you flush route like I do, it's not too critical. If you'll take the overhang off with a hand plane and sanding block, accuracy cutting this line can save work. Some folks even tilt their saw blade for this.