Here are the views. The water line is at 300lb displacement.

Here's a perspective view of it.

A few simple tools and a little patience can yield some satisfying results. Most of what you'll use you probably already have around the house. Sissors, clothes pins, sandpaper, ruler (straight edge) single edged razor blade, pencile and assorted glues.
    The only not so common item is a circular razor wheel made for cutting fabric. It works great on paper and balsa wood as well, and sort of simulates cutting out your parts with a circular saw.

        How you get to your developed panels is up to you. You can play directly with cardstock and sissors if you like. Than transfer that to graph paper to create offsets for lofting your full sized boat. If you already have some offsets you can draw them to scale on graph paper and make xerox copies of them, or enter them into a CAD program like TurboCad, and connect the dots with a spline curve. Or if you are using hulls software as I was in this example you can do a screen save on the nesting portion. Open the ply layout image in any graphic view program and print onto card stock. If you don't have any cardstock handy, file folders are a good weight for the paper models as well.

Here's the screen shot I did for my One Sheet Flat Iron Skiff.

Cut out your parts and tape them together.
If this inspires you to tweak your design, do so and make another paper model until you like what you see. Now use the paper pieces as patterns to cut out your balsa wood. Trace them onto your balsa wood sheet and cut them out with a razor blade or wheel. Some like to use a scale of 3/4 inch to the foot as this allows 1/16" to equal an inch. I tend to just print my patterns as large as I can fit onto the card stock I have, and leave it at that. The wood pieces become a kind of kit. I like to simulate the construction technique if possible. Hot melt glue simulates epoxy fillets in stitch and glue. Otherwise I try to make all wood parts that the full size boat will require. Much can be learned about assembly this way, when changes are easier to make, and less costly.

In spite of what I just said, rather than make the stem post, I cheated and used hot melt, even though this boat is not destined to be a stitch and glue. I taped the ends of the sides together and then while holding them at the designed angle, I applied the hot melt.

Here are the main parts of the boat, sides transom and middle frame. 

Sanding chine logs.

Checking for fairness before gluing bottom.

The bottom is cut oversized prepared to glue to the hull frame.

Bottom is sanded flush and skeg attached.

Seats and deck  are glued in place.