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Summer Breeze- Detailed Plans! - 

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 sidelayout.gif (6935 bytes) Here are the sides layout. Scarf butt blocks, skeg laminates, and quarter knees all come from this sheet.

Lay out the sides on the sheet per the drawing.  Be sure to mark where the frame will fasten to the sides.

          Rip the bow side strip 16 inches wide. (Remember your saw will remove a “kerf” of sawdust so allow for that to keep your sides the same width. They will be slightly narrower than 16”.) Per the drawing measure and mark 52” from opposite corners of the bow side section. Connect those marks and saw down the middle of the line.

          Rip two 3” strips 32” long off of the end of the remaining aft side section.

Rip rip that section into two 16” strips. This aft section is where the rocker is created. The line connecting the point 6” into the short side and 50” into the long side of the panel creates the rocker. You can stack these pieces and cut them at the same time, then round the “point” a gentle curve, or you can use  a batten (flexible piece of wood or plastic) to draw that curve and cut it at the same time as the straight cut. This can be done with a saber saw or jig saw, but a circular saw with the blade set for a shallow cut works best. You can then measure the 4 3/8” in from the aft bottom corner and connect that with the aft top corner, stack and cut. Save these pieces for quarter knees later.



 bottomlayout.gif (6975 bytes)  This shows the bottom layout. Gussets, breasthook, skarf butt blocks and leeboard backing plate are also cut from this sheet.
 Mark a center line lengthwise on the ply sheet at 24”. Also a center line width wise at 48”. (This is where the center frame falls.)

Draw the 12” x 32” triangles on the corners of the ply sheet, then cut, and set aside.

Draw and cut out the corner pieces for the frame gussets and breast hook from the other corners as shown in the drawing. (Full size patterns will be available.)

Rip a 3” strip off both sides - one will make the lengthwise butt block for glueing the bow section of the back. The other will be laminated into a backup plate for the leeboard.

Now glue the triangles to the end of the ply per the instructions on skarfing below.


 Skarfing and Butt block notes:

          Joining plywood edge to edge (skarfing) can be very easy. This boat uses ply butt blocks to reinforce the joint

          There are many ways to clamp butt block skarfs. You can use weights or short #6 sheet metal screws, or even clinch copper or bronze nails and leave them in place, but I prefer a staple gun with half inch staples. The staples are removed after the joint cures.

          Draw a center line down the butt blocks. This line will be above the joint of the ply pieces. A large flat surface is needed. It can be the floor or a table or workbench. I like to set up saw horses with a sheet of ply or OSB across some 2x4s. Use wax paper or plastic wrap to prevent gluing your pieces to the work surface.

Do a dry layout of the pieces and trim the butt blocks to clear the stem, chine logs or inwales if you plan to install them. Trace the butt blocks during the dry run. I recommend that you also round the edges and sand the blocks making them ready to paint, before gluing them. (saves a lot of work)

Make sure you weight or tack your pieces so they don’t slide around when they have the glue on them. Apply glue to the edges and the surfaces using your pencile trace lines as a guide. If you use PL Premium spread it with a notched trowel. (The cheap plastic kind work fine) If you use Titebond II you can spread it with a brush, roller or spatula or scrap of cardboard.

Position the butt blocks, drape twine over them and staple stradling the twine. A staple every couple of inches will do. Make sure you get the corners. The twine both prevents the 1/2” staples from going all the way through the ply (not a big deal really since you’ll be filling all holes later anyway) and makes removal easier. I usually let my joints dry overnight.


 TSSrig10mast.jpg (16224 bytes)  



 boards2.jpg (50847 bytes)  


 hullsdisplace.jpg (51893 bytes)  


 chinegundetail.jpg (32048 bytes)  


 framelines.gif (3633 bytes)  Here's the lines of her simple frame.  


 gussetstem.gif (5089 bytes)  Here's a pattern for her gussets, that are sandwiched between her frame pieces. Also a cross section of the stem, which can be cut from a 1x2 (3/4" x 1.5")



 frame1.jpg (8183 bytes)  These drawings should make the sandwiching clearer.  


 frame1.b.jpg (7123 bytes) Both the bottom and side pieces are full length and overlap on opposite sides of the gusset.



 lapprofile3.gif (2514 bytes)  linelapdraw3.gif (3247 bytes)
 lapsides.gif (2922 bytes)  This is a lapstrake version still in the dream stage. The laps are formed flat on the floor and then bent like normal one piece sides.

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 rowboards1.gif (5614 bytes)  Here is the board layout for the rowing version. The knees and breast hook can be replaced by 7/8" dowels which also make great hand grips and tie down spots when car topping.




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Summer Breeze waits for an Autumn breeze.  

Day Thirteen...



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