and Butt block notes:
Joining plywood edge to edge (skarfing) can be very easy. This boat uses
ply butt blocks to reinforce the joint
There are many ways to clamp butt block skarfs. You can use weights or
short #6 sheet metal screws, or even clinch copper or bronze nails and
leave them in place, but I prefer a staple gun with half inch staples. The
staples are removed after the joint cures.
Draw a center line down the butt blocks. This line will be above the joint
of the ply pieces. A large flat surface is needed. It can be the floor or
a table or workbench. I like to set up saw horses with a sheet of ply or
OSB across some 2x4s. Use wax paper or plastic wrap to prevent gluing your
pieces to the work surface.
a dry layout of the pieces and trim the butt blocks to clear the stem,
chine logs or inwales if you plan to install them. Trace the butt blocks
during the dry run. I recommend that you also round the edges and sand the
blocks making them ready to paint, before gluing them. (saves a lot of
sure you weight or tack your pieces so they dont slide around when they
have the glue on them. Apply glue to the edges and the surfaces using your
pencile trace lines as a guide. If you use PL Premium spread it with a
notched trowel. (The cheap plastic kind work fine) If you use Titebond II
you can spread it with a brush, roller or spatula or scrap of cardboard.
the butt blocks, drape twine over them and staple stradling the twine. A
staple every couple of inches will do. Make sure you get the corners. The
twine both prevents the 1/2 staples from going all the way through the
ply (not a big deal really since youll be filling all holes later
anyway) and makes removal easier. I usually let my joints dry overnight.