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Summer Breeze Conclusions...& ideas...

If I were to build her again.... (which I might)

There are some things that could be done more simply and since that is my primary goal, I'll outline those things here.

I would do a more ordinary internal stem, triangular in cross section. This will also simplify the gunwales, as no compound angle fit is needed.

The gunwales I would make external, not split, that is with no inwales. Though I love the looks of this it adds many more parts and steps to the building. Since I had some trouble with breakage of the gunwale stock, I'm inclined to go with thinner stock sliced off a 2x4 or 2x6. Say 3/8" x 1 1/2". Though this would necessitate more laminations, any tendency towards breakage would be minimized and PVC pipe clamps would be adequate to the job of clamping. The pieces could be made with a table saw or a circular saw with edge guide a la Dave Carnel.

The transom could laminated out of spruce 2x4 or 2x6 with PL premium which would be lighter than my solid pine proved to be. It could also be made of 1x12 pine shelving stock, though I'd consider a "knee" bracing the transom to the bottom. It could also be made of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood. I would add a glue reinforcing strips around the edges of 3/4 x 3/4 stock. (split 1x2)

If rowing only the frame can be left temporary, however if sailing is the primary use, I'd make the internal frame a permanent part of the hull. Made of 1x2 or 1x3 and the corners braced with 1/4" ply gussets. (see drawing for dimensions)

Breasthook and quarter knees:
I'd omit these entirely and replace them with 1" dowel handle/ braces. Using a long 1" spade bit drill from gunwale to gunwale at the bow, gunwale to transom at the stern. Glue in the 1" dowels, mechanically fasten them by pre drilling crosswise into their ends where they pass through the gunwale for a bronze ring nail. After the glue has dried, cut the ends off flush with a Japanese pull saw.




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