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Wackless Lassie.... (I left off the noodles on mine.)
This is my version of Fritz Funk's Wackie Lassie, which he designed based on Rushton's Wee Lassie. He builds them with school kids in Juneau Alaska. Check out his site. Great stuff there! He uses "Wackie Noodles" the ubiquitous kids foam pool toys for the gunnels - hence the name. Isaac.jpg (93269 bytes)DnMdouble.jpg (58429 bytes)
wacrailflat.jpg (16607 bytes) This build uses one and a half sheet of 1/4" ply. 

A great part of this design is that Fritz geared the build towards kids so much of the gluing can be done "on the flat." The chine logs, gunnels, and keel are all done that way.

Here I've finished joining the sides with 1/4" x 3" butt blocks. Gued with Tightbond II and 1/2" staples as clamps. Since I build with kids too, I wanted to see how much I could make use of Tightbond II on this boat. 

wacparts2.jpg (21583 bytes)  Here are the parts and the 3 temporary forms laid out for the bend. The forms are made of OSB (oriented strand board)
wacbend1.jpg (28052 bytes)  The boat is 30" wide at the sheer and 24" at the chine. The middle frame is attached.
wacbend2.jpg (56086 bytes) I have attached the other two frames, but I decided later this was a mistake. It would have been easier to bend the sides around the middle frame only, then insert the end frames later. 
wacbend3.jpg (59958 bytes)  A rope "spanish windless" is helpful. Usually that means using a twist stick to tighten. I've grown to prefer a kind of truckers hitch to pull the ends together.
wacbend5.jpg (27874 bytes)  But it does come together with some creative clamping and cursing.
wacbotscarf.jpg (59249 bytes)  This shows the bottom joint which is done the same as the sides. The staples are removed after the glue dries of course.
wackeelglue.jpg (23844 bytes) I'm just about to attach the keel which is a 1x2. I have the keel wedged between some stopps on the work bench. I did a dry run that made a duct tape "hinge" to keep the bottom in relative position while I rolled glue on with a foam roller. 
wacbotglue1.jpg (63966 bytes)  The bottom gets glued on with PL Premium and lots of PVC clamps.
wacbotgluclean.jpg (18916 bytes)  I prop it up and clean up the PL premium ooze to save work later. I use tongue depressor sticks and cut one round end off with scissors. 
wactransglue.jpg (12776 bytes) wactranstrim.jpg (35374 bytes) I glued the transom with PL Premium and temporary dry wall screws through ply pads. I trim the bottom and rails with a Japanese pull saw.
wacstemwire.jpg (28908 bytes) The rails need a little extra oomph to bend.wacstemclose.jpg (24560 bytes)

I was originally going to use a solid stem on this boat, but I was inspired by some PL Premium success stories from David Colpitts on the Mouse Boats list.

So I glued the stem with PL and glass tape. Here's a page giving the details. 

wacbottrim.jpg (23542 bytes)   I trim the bottom with a router.
wacspreaders.jpg (39701 bytes) Fit spreaders instead of fore and aft decks. 
waccartop.jpg (37689 bytes)  She car tops nicely with 4 canoe gunnel pads. I put a hole in the top of her dory transom and rounded it with a router. Makes a great place to secure the stern for traveling.
wacwet1.jpg (36962 bytes)  

Her first dip in the lake.

The $20 WalMart double paddle works just fine. She performs well even with our pup, Mocha along.

JnMdouble.jpg (45595 bytes) wacturn.jpg (19083 bytes) DnMdouble.jpg (58429 bytes)

I used cypress for the solid wood parts and 1/4" luan ply. She weighs 40 lbs. I'm working on a design for a double ender, with 1/8" lapstrake sides... smaller rails and keel to see if I can get the weight down.

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