Mast & Spars
If you're already a boat builder you probably recognize an easy build when
you see one, so you don't need any encouragement from me. Have fun. If
you're new to boat building or haven't built a boat before you've found a
good place to start with Summer Breeze.
This is the most important ingredient in creating anything. If you have a
vision you're set. If not, try making the paper
model. Imagine how you'll feel when you launch your new boat you made with
your own hands. Imagine they way you intend to use your boat. Dream a
If you can read a tape measure, saw near a pencil line, drill a hole and
hammer a nail you have all the skills you need. As you'll see, none of it is
as mysterious as it sometimes looks.
- Measure & Mark: tape measure, straight edge, pencil - bevel guage
- Cut: hand saw, saber saw, circular saw
- Drill: hand or electric drill (cordless is nice)
- Sanding: block & paper, electric palm sander, hand belt
- Finishing: foam roller & tray, roller covers, foam brushes, bondo
or exterior filler
- Clamps - the more the better, but you can make some of PVC too.
2 - 4x8 sheets of 1/4" exterior plywood. (I've used Marine grad, AC,
BC & Luan)
The solid wood pieces can be of fir, spruce,
yellow pine, cypress or whatever you can find.
Being a "belt and suspenders" kind of guy, I like to use glue
and fasteners. The theory being if you use nails or screws sufficient to
hold the boat together by themselves, plus a modern glue that could hold the
boat together by itself, you have a built in safety margin. Either can fail
and you can still be afloat. On top of that when using fasteners, you can
often continue on with building while the glue continues to cure.
||Stainless steel deck screws are available
in most hardware stores. I like the square drive heads myself, but
philips is fine. I use them to attach the (optional) inwales through
the spacers into the rub-rails. Also, where the frame pieces overlap,
and attaching the seat risers. I used to use little 3/4" SS
screws to glue on the sides and bottom, but partly for economic
reasons I have grown fond of bronze ring nails for that purpose. They
both hold as well, screws are removable, but getting the heads flush
and filled well is a challenge.
||Screws can be used temporarily like you
would clamps. Drywall screws with little pieces of plywood are great
for this. The ply keeps the screw head from pulling down into the boat
piece you're holding which minimizes the hole you will be filling
later. I try to keep a bunch around in different lengths.
|| Bronze ring nails are sometimes called "boat
nails" and are a great invention. They hold as well as screws,
are relatively cheap and easy to use, and if you hit one with a tool,
say a hand plane, it doesn't damage the blade. Bronze is softer than
steel and so steel will cut it. They are available in many sizes my
favorites are #14 3/6", 7/8" and #12 7/8", 1",
PL Premium, Titebond II, Epoxy